To help ensure the longevity of your Edward Barder rod we would suggest
- Clean the rod often. Wipe it down with a damp cloth,
then with a dry one. Wash the cork handle from time to
time, using warm water and a drop of washing up liquid.
- Keep the ferrule slides clean by carefully wiping with a
handkerchief, firstly with a moistened corner of the cloth,
finishing with a dry part. They may be lubricated by the
lightest application of hard hand soap - nothing else
whatsoever - to the male slides, but only when absolutely
- Store the rod in its bag, thin ends uppermost, hanging from
a hook in a dark dry place. Use the leather case for transport, not
long term storage. The leather case will benefit from an
occasional application of boot polish.
- Make a ring with ones thumb and forefinger when replacing
the rod in its case, and guide the rod into the case so that the
hard edge of the metal tube cant knock and damage the rod
- Alternate the rod tops from day to day. This
distributes wear and tear evenly. Do not use one top
exclusively. The tops are numbered.
- Make sure there is plenty of room about you when assembling
and taking down a rod. Push ferrules together with hands
together, and pull apart with hands spread apart. The male
ferrule should be inserted at least ⁷⁄₈ of the way
into the female ferrule before use. If a ferrule becomes
stubborn, dont force it. Contact us immediately if any ferrule
trouble is encountered.
- Use the rod with the correct AFTM (American Fly-fishing
Tackle Manufacturers) rated line. Some of the
best we have used are the Scientific Anglers AirCel Ultra4 in
Buckskin Tan and the Mastery Series (see the 3m/Scientific
Anglers web site for the full range). Ensure that the
connection with the leader is very small and neat.
- If you dont make up your own leaders, a Leeda Profil leader
(which doesnt have the excessively heavy, stiff butt common to
most knotless leaders) needle knotted into the fly line is very
good, with a tiny Roman Moser tippet ring permanently knotted to
the point. Tippets are easily attached to and removed from the
ring, without shortening the leader each time.
- Keep fly lines clean, and if they are run out and stretched
before each trip, they will perform about 30% more effectively.
A new line, or one thats been on the reel a long time, should
be run out and trailed behind you as you walk it through a field
of long grass. This removes twists from the line.
The best line cleaner is Armor All, which is sold for cleaning
car interiors. A lifetime supply costs about the same as
one little bottle of proprietary line cleaner.
- If flies become snagged, point the rod straight down the
line, or put the rod down and handle the line beyond the tip
ring. Never yank at a fixed object or fish, or over-strain
a rod in casting. Using a split cane rod in circumstances
that are outside the limits of its specification may result in
the bamboo fibres becoming stretched beyond their capacity to
return to their original position. A moments carelessness
can ruin a rod that would haven given a lifetime of good service
if handled correctly.
- When playing and landing fish, the rod butt should be at or
close to 90 to the line beyond the tip ring. As more pressure
is applied, the lower, stronger part of the rod will take the
strain, relieving the relatively fragile tip section.
- During protracted struggles with big fish, try holding the
rod with the rings facing upwards: easier than it sounds, this
distributes heavy loads on both sides of the rod.
- Use a landing net with a sensibly long handle. Short
net handles may seem convenient but at less effective and
require the rod to be held up almost vertically whilst landing a
fish. This places a lot of unnecessary strain on the rod
top, and should be avoided at all costs.
- Check your rod regularly for damaged rings, varnish etc.
Your rod is made to the closest tolerances, using the finest
materials. If accidentally damaged or strained, the split
cane blank, the silk whippings and other components may fail.
the event of accidents or wear, please seek our advice, and if
necessary, return the rod to us for repairs and servicing.
- Store a damp, dirty rod in a damp, dirty bag.
- Store the
rod in its case, unless you are sure it is bone dry (other than during transit).
- Varnish, oil or wax a cork handle.
- Stick hooks in a cork
- Twist or wrench a ferrule.
- Put a wet or dirty
- Lubricate or coat a ferrule with anything
- Let ferrules drop onto or stand on hard, rough surfaces.
- Never twist the rod when assembling it or taking it apart. Always hold
the rod sensibly and securely, pushing and pulling in a straight line when
inserting and separating ferrules. A sensible mantra is "Rod together, hands
together - rod apart, hands apart."
- Try to pull snagged hooks free with
the rod bent.
- Play/land fish with the rod pointing up at an acute angle.
This is inefficient and places all the strain on the rod tip. The lower the
angle the rod is held at, within reason, the more the lower, stronger portion of
the rod can absorb strain and apply pressure.
- Allow the tip section of
the rod to be bent severely. It is both unnecessary and inefficient, and in the
case of split cane, may cause irreparable damage. Try to turn the rod over,
rings uppermost, when landing a fish or during a protracted fight.